Peru’s incredible variety of activities, microclimates, and landscapes makes it hard to describe. It’s a land of laidback people who love ceviche and sharing lengthy meals that are almost always organic and delicious. At sea level, this country is a carnival of perfectly prepared fresh seafood. Up in the soaring-Andes highlands, the menu becomes meatier but the quality stays high, even in the ultra-casual eateries. In both settings, nourishing soups serve as the perfect prelude to an array of traditional gourmet-style dishes. Here, south of the equator, a myriad of enchanting adventures awaits, both at the dinner table and beyond. Peru’s warmth and hospitality shine through, offering far more than just Machu Picchu. A captivating blend of adventure, gastronomy, and jaw-dropping scenery makes for an inviting experience that inspires a sense of wellbeing.
Before ascending into Peru’s magical snow-capped mountains, I had a memorable meet-and-greet on the edge of Lima, a vibrant, Pacific-hugging city of 12 million. I’ve enjoyed a writing career crawling with wildlife encounters, both on and off the NYC subway. Getting up close and personal with a colony of curious sea lions was a new highlight. Just off the coast near one of the Palomino Islands is a colony of 10,000 highly social sea lions that thrive without predators. This unique setup allows curious humans like me to swim, interact, and play among them. Talk about a welcome committee! Before I even hit the water, they began roaring with seeming delight.
Soon, around 100 of these curious sea lions leapt from the cliffs and swam toward us, playfully darting back and forth with friendly, harmless nudges.. They nibbled our toes and showed off their skills with impressive backflips, turning the chill Pacific waters into an aquatic stage. It was like group therapy with nature’s finest hosts, a rare chance to be truly out of your element and in theirs. On shore, another thousand bellowed at our antics. This adventure was arranged by Mar Adentro Excursions, who also made sure of proper distancing from any cubs, though we saw none. It’s important to note that, similar to what you can experience on the Galapagos Islands, these never hunted or taunted creatures are a singular experience, as many of us have encountered territorial, aggressive, and “dangerous” sea lions in urban settings like San Francisco. Sea lions can be happier than clams—discover why. Interacting with these animals brought a deep sense of joy and connection. The experience was as therapeutic as it was exhilarating—a perfect example of nature’s power to renew the soul.
The Ancash Region—Peru’s Switzerland
Peru is divided into 24 incredibly diverse regions. A one-hour flight from Lima brings you up to Huaraz, the hub of the Ancash region. High in the glaciated Andes, overnight August temps can dip to near 40-degrees. Huaraz is a two-mile-high valley town rimmed by the snow-capped Andes. A 1970 earthquake decimated its sixteenth-century Spanish-Colonial design as well as the population. The rebuild may not be as charming as Cusco, but this is where the genuine, less-touristy high-altitude fun hides—unpretentious organic and gourmet restaurants, glacier-fed craft breweries, and affordable outdoor adventures. And, you’re always within view of and have access to Peru’s tallest peak, 22,200-foot Mount Huascaran.
I stayed at the Andino Club Hotel, which had a warm lodge-like atmosphere and intimate breakfasts that invited conversation with would-be strangers. Right on the edge of town, this likable getaway features interior and exterior gardens and panoramic views of a dozen 20,000-foot peaks. Nearby, rooftop CIMA RestoBar is the place for breakfasts and brunches enhanced by Peruvian salsa music. Festive Cumbre restaurant, which overlooks this mini city from above, is where you can enjoy a eucalipto shot, craft beer including Sierra Andina, and delicious entrees. This is also the site of a huge illuminated cross that watches over the city.
A culinary highlight was dinner at Anden Verde, a lynchpin of Huaraz’s exploding foodie scene. I warmed up with shrimp in sailor’s sauce, pureed cauliflower, cilantro emulsion, and olive crunch. The taste elevation continued with northern udon pasta, shellfish, and grilled squid. They also love crispy guinea pig in these parts.
Carhuaz’s Triple Crown
An hour from Huaraz, it’s easy to get high in other ways in Peru’s Andes via Carhuaz’s artisanal triple-crown: World-class ham, ice cream, and craft beer, all in close proximity. This small town features Mota Hams’ familial recipe, using non-industrial raised and organic-fed Andean pigs. Steps away is your shot at trying some carbon-vanilla ice cream at one of the town’s many shops, including Granizo for gelato enhanced by local fruit flavors. And, down the road, you’ll find a glacier-fed craft brewery and inviting beer garden.
From afar, Carhuaz’s Ucuchá Cerveza Artisanal resembles an old-style roadside beer joint, but their eight taps of regionally inspired craft brews include a cacao sweet stout, a Campesina (Country Lady) Doble IPA, and a wheaty Ayer Te Vi (I Saw You Yesterday). This down-to-earth brewery and beer garden at the base of snow-capped peaks employs pristine glacial water and a lovely staff. Welcome to Peru’s Switzerland.
Local adventures include cliffside rock climbing with professional guides, bonding in a local pool hall, or simply going for a stroll. You can take the thrill-seeking up a notch by paddleboarding on Lake Orconcocha, an aqua-blue glacial lake in Huascarán National Park.
Photo Credit: Martín Bustamante/PROMPERÚ
Glacial-melt Laguna Rocotuyoc (Quechuan for enchanted lagoon), in Huascarán National Park, is Andean condor territory—the largest flying bird in the world has an 11-foot wingspan and can ascend to heights of 3.5 miles. This South American mountain nirvana is accessed by a stunningly scenic odyssey of hairpin turns ascending a tapering river valley. The multihued Ancash region flows from these Andes glaciers to the Pacific Ocean’s surfer scene.
An astoundingly beautiful hike alongside Laguna Rocotuyoc brings you to Congelada Lagoon, where newly unleashed glacial ice floats in azure water. The Cordillera Blanca is the world’s highest tropical mountain range.
Elevated Stays in the Highlands
Huaraz’s new two-flights-per-day airstrip (one coming, one going) means arriving in these highlands in an hour via Lima. Callejon Restaurant, adjacent to the airstrip, has fantastic minestrone soup made with basil-green broth. No meal in Peru goes by without people agreeing that soup is supreme, and here it truly is.
Overlooking the sleepy airport area is the swanky Huayrongo restaurant and bar that’s part of Cuesta Serena Boutique Hotel, an extraordinary countryside retreat. Further afield, Wayarumi Boutique Hotel has six inviting Southwest-style rooms with balcony views of the glorious mountains.
A Taste of Lima
Most flights to and from Peru are via sprawling Lima, where getting into countless modes of fun are simple. Lima’s often foggy, temperate climate means no extreme weather in this metropolis.
There’s no shortage of good vibes here. El Parque del Amor—Lima’s Love Park—was imagined in the early 90s when the Mayor of Miraflores was on a walk with a celebrated artist. As they passed this spot, already long associated with Pacific Ocean-side pheromones, the local smooching kids all ran away upon seeing the mayor, who decided right then to make this romantic spot official and sanctioned this suggestive statue by the artist with whom he was strolling. This Peruvian-love photo opp was a stop on my LimaBici (bike) tour. Also, the Pacific-Oceanfront part of Lima boasts a strong year-round surfing community.
Head over to Panchita restaurant for Sopa Criolla (beef and angel-hair soup), the ultimate Peruvian comfort food. Also be sure to hit Lady Bee, a trendy open-air open-kitchen cocktail café, where you can enjoy a lemongrass-coconut whisky boulevardier.
Strolling Barranco, Lima’s artsy oceanfront neighborhood, you’ll encounter art galleries, cafes, and parks. There’s also Peruvian cacao/chocolate and coffee tasting at Ciclos Café, where passionate experts showcase the “altitude attitudes” provided by Peru’s dozens of diverse cacao eco-regions and microclimates. Here, you’ll dive into the science of chocolate and how Peru is now a big player on the world stage, followed by a talk on coffee-growing, with co-samplings of chocolate and coffee.
Lima’s oceanfront AC Hotel Lima Miraflores, a Marriott Bonvoy, has a fabulous second floor breakfast spread. The constant roar of the ocean is a pleasing perk. The AC Fitness Studio is also perfect for getting in a workout. Check out the hotel’s 18th-floor restaurant, Insumo (Ingredient) and its specialty, the seafood causa, a flambeed mix and confit-sauce broth-based seafood casserole. Another hotel restaurant, Kimo, atop the Iberostar Hotel does an amazing job reinventing sushi fusion.
Come check out South America’s wild west, a holdout for one of our planet’s lingering havens for ancient ice. And, why not enjoy the affordable show-stopping cuisine. From swimming with sea lions to hiking among glaciers and the many tasty organic meals in between, you’ll discover an unforgettable, health-enhancing journey. In whatever voyage mode you choose, Peru won’t disappoint. Get started on the trip of a lifetime via Peru Travel. There are direct flights to Lima from many U.S. cities, and the new airstrip in Huaraz makes getting up into the Ancash region a cinch.
