While some may rely on meditation or sound baths to help regulate their nervous systems, the mountains have always done the trick for me. I’ve often imagined I might one day settle in Colorado or near the Grand Tetons. Instead, I’ve found myself returning each summer to the Adirondacks. For me, there is no place more restorative than the mountains. Earlier this year, I was invited to visit three hotels from the Tschuggen Collection in Switzerland. Needless to say, I didn’t hesitate to jump at the chance.
It had been more than a decade since my last visit to Switzerland’s mountain-studded landscape, and I was beyond excited to return. From fondue and raclette to breathtaking views and epic train journeys through the mountains, who could resist? And I must admit, the timing felt especially serendipitous. Life in America had been feeling particularly heavy, and I was ready to get away.
Upon arrival in Zurich, I boarded a train to Arosa, watching as the landscape transformed into snow-dusted peaks. Arosa, a family-friendly ski resort tucked into the Alps, would be my home base for the next few days, beginning with a stay at the Tschuggen Grand Hotel. The moment I stepped into my room and out onto the balcony, I felt myself exhale. Snow-covered mountaintops stretched endlessly before me, the kind of view that feels almost unreal. From my bed, the scene looked like a picture-perfect postcard. The mountains were already working their quiet magic.
As the only five-star property in Arosa, the Tschuggen Grand Hotel offers 128 spacious rooms, suites, and Mountain Lofts. Perched nearly 6,000 feet above sea level, it has its own private mountain railway, the Tschuggen Express, which whisks guests up the slopes. While skiers crowd it during peak hours, I took it to access a network of nearby hiking trails. At the top, there are a couple of inviting spots to indulge in an Aperol Spritz between runs.
Originally built in 1929 and thoughtfully updated over the years, the hotel blends eclectic design with modern alpine elegance. Its standout feature is the Tschuggen Bergoase Spa, designed by Swiss architect Mario Botta. Spanning four levels, the spa is instantly recognizable by its striking glass “sails,” which echo the surrounding peaks and flood the interiors with natural light. Rising almost organically from the mountainside, the space feels both grounded and inviting.
While Arosa draws visitors for its outdoor adventures, the spa is a destination in its own right. Inside, guests will find indoor and outdoor pools, a Kneipp trail, an Arosa rock grotto, sun-drenched terraces, private spa suites, and an extensive menu of treatments. I spent a lovely afternoon enjoying the Moving Mountains Massage, followed by a healthy lunch at the spa. The Moving Mountains concept, which is threaded throughout the property, centers on restoring vitality through a balance of nature, movement, and mindfulness. Treatments combine traditional healing practices with nature-based elements, while the products used are vegan, free from animal testing, and formulated without microplastics or harmful additives.
One of my most memorable experiences was also the one I had quietly been dreading: ice bathing at Eisbadi Arosa. On a brilliant, sunlit day, our group made its way to a frozen lake, where a section had been carved out for those interested in taking the polar plunge. I lasted perhaps 10 to 15 seconds, just enough to shock all my senses. The cold was intense, but so was the exhilaration. After, we retreated to the nearby Finnish sauna to warm up and enjoy refreshments before heading back out for another round. Against the backdrop of towering peaks and endless blue sky, the experience was a highlight. Despite lingering jet lag, I was energized for the rest of the day.
Switzerland may not immediately come to mind as a destination for healthy eating, given its reputation for cheese and chocolate. But at the Tschuggen Grand Hotel, balance is key. The culinary offerings range from indulgent to nourishing. I loved the lively après-ski atmosphere at The Basement, complete with a vintage bowling alley and comfort-driven menu sourced from local producers. At the Grand Restaurant, the Moving Mountains menu offered lighter, nutrient-focused dishes among other delicious options, while La Brezza, with two Michelin stars, delivered a more elevated dining experience.
From there, I moved on to Valsana Hotel, a more relaxed, design-forward property in the village. With 40 rooms and junior suites as well as nine family apartments, it offers a distinctly casual alpine feel. Sustainability is woven into every aspect of the hotel, from responsible sourcing to its innovative CO2-neutral infrastructure, powered in part by an ice battery energy system.
Though I wasn’t there long, I immediately felt at home. My room featured a vintage record player, a unique and thoughtful detail that made the space feel personal. Lunch at Twist, the hotel’s laid-back restaurant, served a mix of classic comfort dishes and plant-based options, alongside the signature Moving Mountains menu. The hotel also features a spa, with a steam bath and saunas that overlook the nearby woods.
That evening, I joined a torchlit walk to Alpenblick restaurant. Equipped with ice cleats and flaming torches, we followed our guide along a snowy path to the cozy, historic building, originally a farmhouse dating back to 1910. Inside, we were treated to a tour of the owner’s private wine cellar before settling in for a memorable meal. The return journey, via snowmobile under a star-filled sky, added to the adventure.
The following day, I traveled to St. Moritz for a stay at the iconic Carlton Hotel. Set in the Engadine Valley, St. Moritz is where alpine charm meets high glamour. In contrast to Arosa’s casual energy, this is a place where people to be seen and dress to the nines.
The Carlton Hotel reflects that spirit. With its bold, colorful interiors by designer Carlo Rampazzi, the five-star property is both luxurious with a touch of whimsy. Its 60 suites are all south-facing, offering sweeping views over Lake St. Moritz and the surrounding mountains. The view was the first thing that captured my attention upon entering my suite, followed closely by the marble bathroom, complete with a soaking tub and a Dyson hairdryer I was more than a little excited to try.
While indulgence comes easily here, wellness is never far from reach. The Carlton Spa spans three floors and features treatment rooms, saunas, a steam bath, and an indoor-outdoor pool. Even without a scheduled treatment, I enjoyed the spa’s hydrotherapy circuit. The saunas, experience shower, ice fountain, and more all offered their own restorative benefits.
Dining is equally thoughtful at The Carlton. A light lunch at the chic Bel Etage bar set the tone for the day, while dinner at the Grand Restaurant showcased the Moving Mountains philosophy once again. Developed in collaboration with nutritionist Rhaya Jordan, the menu emphasizes nutrient-dense, seasonal ingredients that are both nourishing and satisfying.
Exploring St. Moritz was a definite highlight. The village is dotted with charming boutiques and iconic hotels, while the frozen lake served as a stage for cross-country skiers and the occasional hang glider drifting overhead. One of the most unforgettable experiences was lunch at Salastrains. What began as a traditional alpine meal quickly transformed into something else entirely. Under the midday sun, the terrace turned into a lively DJ-fueled gathering, with guests dancing on chairs, singing together, and sharing magnums of Veuve Clicquot. It wasn’t wellness in the conventional sense, but it was something just as essential—pure, spontaneous joy.
Later, we returned to the hotel by horse-drawn carriage, the soft jingle of bells echoing through the crisp mountain air. And somewhere along the way, among the stillness of the peaks, the shock of icy water, and the unexpected joy of shared community, I was reminded that wellness is about being grateful for the present moment and letting the mountains work their magic.
