New Orleans has always held a certain appeal. It’s mysterious, magical, and so unlike any other place in the country. My first trip to the French-inspired city was as a 20-something with my sister and a childhood friend. We visited just three days after Marti Gras, so a festive vibe enveloped the city. I’m not sure what possessed us to go there other than a great sense of adventure, or perhaps, having watched “The Big Easy” at an impressionable age. The trip proved to be an eventful one with my sister deciding to move to California soon after returning home to Michigan.
It had been more than 20 years since I last visited the Big Easy when I decided it was time for a return visit. Finding myself back on Bourbon Street, I was a bit overwhelmed by the party atmosphere that had so captivated my younger self. Fortunately, I was able to forego the budget accommodations this time around and discovered a more sophisticated side of NOLA.
What Not to Miss
- Combo Cocktail and Food History Tour from Doctor Gumbo Tours, a four-hour taste- and-sip journey in the French Quarter
- A memorable musical performance at Preservation Hall
- A treatment at The Spa at Four Seasons at The Four Seasons Hotel New Orleans
- Dinner at the Copper Vine Wine Pub & Inn
- A ride on St. Charles historic streetcar line
Accommodations
While New Orleans has a host of accommodations, I was thrilled to begin my stay in a charming boutique hotel away from the hustle and bustle of Bourbon Street. The Copper Vine Wine Pub & Inn features 11 stylish rooms with extraordinarily high ceilings in a 19th-century property that has a nostalgic feel. A true reprieve from the city, the inn was full of cozy spaces to work or just kick back and socialize. Interestingly, it was once home to the city’s second oldest restaurant, Mayle’s. The welcoming and design-savvy space with local artwork and custom-designed fabrics and furnishings has a vintage vibe. I appreciated the water and coffee stations found on each floor. Above all, I loved the hotel’s intimate and timeless allure.
My next stop was a stay at The Roosevelt New Orleans, a grand dame hotel that has held court over the French Quarter for more than 130 years. From the gold and mosaic-filled lobby to the famed Sazerac Bar, this historic gem dazzles with its old school glamour. Staying in a spacious suite, I enjoyed having a separate room in which to work and a half bath. The main bathroom could have used an upgrade, but overall, I had everything I needed for a comfortable and restorative stay.
It was then onto the Four Seasons Hotel New Orleans, where I was instantly smitten with the stunning floral installation from world-renowned floral designer Jeff Leatham in the lobby and throughout the hotel. The elaborate display was designed to create a stunning backdrop for carnival season and Mardi Gras. Set in a 34-storey landmark tower on Canal Street, the hotel felt like a lavish retreat with its stunning decor, spa-inspired bathroom, and lovely views of the Mississippi River. A quick walk to the waterfront, Bourbon Street, and Vue Orleans (its rooftop observation deck with 360-degree views of the city), it puts everything within easy reach.
Dining
It’s nearly impossible to talk about New Orleans without waxing poetic about its eclectic cuisine. My first evening there, I enjoyed dinner at the Copper Vine, where I indulged in the delicious Short Rib Ragu & Pappardelle. A nearby diner suggested the Cajun Carrots, which turned out to be equally rave-worthy. While the city is known for its blend of Cajun and Creole cuisine (think: gumbo, jambalaya, po’boys, and crawfish etouffee), healthier options can be found. I especially enjoyed the Four Seasons breakfast buffet, with made-to-order omelets, fresh fruit, yogurt, and more.
For a true taste of the Big Easy, Miss River is described as a “love letter to Louisiana,” with an elevated take on Creole favorites. The Vegetable Green Curry and Emily’s Famous Red Beans and Rice With Buttermilk-Fried Chicken are both not to be missed. Chemin Á La Mer, featuring views of the Mississippi River and an oyster bar, serves specialty steaks and fresh seafood. Helmed by James Beard award-winning chef Donald Link, the restaurant offers dishes such as Snapper Ceviche and Jumbo Crab Salad, all influenced by his travels to the French Antilles.
Another New Orleans’ fave is the Palace Café, which honors the city’s rich history. I visited on a weekend, when a jazz trio is on hand to entertain the lively brunch crowd. Lunch at the Audubon Clubhouse by Dickie Brennan & Co. provided a breath of fresh air away from city’s more touristy quarters. I dined on the veranda, where ceiling fans spun lazily overhead as a warm Southern breeze drifted through the live oak and palm trees. Overlooking the rolling greens of Audubon Park’s golf course, the setting felt like a respite tucked inside the city. There, I enjoyed a Roasted Squash Salad, highlighting an array of fresh ingredients.
No foodie should leave New Orleans without diving fork first into the legendary culinary scene, and there’s no better way than with a food tour. I joined the Combo Cocktail and Food History Tour from Doctor Gumbo Tours, a four-hour taste-and-sip adventure through the French Quarter. From fiery hot sauces and melt-in-your-mouth pralines to alligator-sausage gumbo to bourbon milk punch, every stop served up rich flavors and fascinating stories.
Wellness
While the Crescent City is often thought of as the South’s “Sin City,” a place of debauched revelry, you can also find a host of healthy offerings when you know where to look. Inside The Roosevelt New Orleans, the Waldorf Astoria Spa recently transformed its former mani/pedi lounge into a relaxing Recovery Lounge featuring four Mind Sync Anti-Gravity Loungers, with added amenities such as smart goggles, red light therapy, and Knesko Collagen Masks. I had an opportunity to experience a restorative hour enjoying soothing music paired with healing vibrations. The next day, I returned for a relaxing massage that felt even more restorative.
At The Spa at Four Seasons, the decor itself is enough to send you into a state of bliss. Time seemed irrelevant amid the opulent setting. Opting for an 80-minute Swedish Massage, I succumbed to the healing strokes, immersing myself in a quiet solitude. Cocooned in warmth and surrounded by tranquility, I floated somewhere between deep relaxation and pure indulgence. It was the counterbalance to New Orleans’ vibrant celebratory energy—a serene escape that grounded after the city’s exhilarating buzz.
